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Other
methods to taking off fuchsia cuttings |
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| Six cutting methods less used by fuchsialovers are: |
| Watercuttings
- The cuttings are made ready as here above in detail is described. Of course you
can let root the readymade cutting in a glass or pot with water, but a
better method to make watercuttings is placing the cuttings in a tray over which
aviary wire-netting is stretched. The tray is filled till 1 cm under the
wire-netting with water. We add to the water 0,1 procent of growing powder. Also we may
add to it some fertilizer 20-20-20, but no more then 0,5 procent. The cuttings are placed
in the meshes of the wire-netting and hang then with their leaves on the wire-netting in
the water. Protecting with folie etc. isn't here necessary. The temperature of the water
must be minimum 20°C and this succeeds with the aid of hanging in an aquarium
heatingelement with thermostate. When the cuttings aren't standing close to each other
there cann't exist botrytis. |
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| Watercuttings
- A good method to make watercuttings is hanging up the cuttings in the meshes of
aviary wire-netting that is stretched over a tray with water. When the cuttings have roots
of 2 à 5 mm length repot them in little pots with soil of 1 part cuttingsoil + 1
part pottingsoil. |
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| When the roots have a length of 2 till 5 mm place them in little pots with
a fertilizer-poor soilmix. That soilmix can exist out of 1 part cuttingsoil and 1 part
good pottingsoil. Don't let growing the little roots more long. Longer roots break down by
placing in the pots; also they give a lower growing out of the cutting while the roots
first must change from waterroots in soilroots. |
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A handy variant on the method mentioned before is placing the cuttings in
wholes, which are made with the aid of a glowing-made pricker/screwdriver in a thin plate
polystyreen. That plate with in it the placed cuttings floats on water in a accumulator
tray or old aquarium (see picture beside). |
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| A cutting that is called in Dutch language 'woodcutting', which
isn't directly set-up - When in autumn all branches are pruned back till on one
knot from the stem there is sufficient pruned material on hand to make from the underpiece
of pruned branches woodcuttings. That pruned underpiece must be woody and must have
minimum two knots. Prune the cutting at the bottomside minimum 2 cm above the underknot right
down. Pruning minimum 2 cm above the above-knot must be done slanting, so that
you in spring well can see wath is the underside and wath is the aboveside of such a
woodcutting (prune well with a sharp pruning-shears). Remove all the presented leaves and
spray the woodcuttings with a mouldy preventing expedient (let them dry in 15 till 20
minutes). The woodcuttings are gathered and labeled, after which they are preserved laying
in locked plastic trays in light wet made peat-litter or scharp sand by a temperature of
maximum 5°C, for example in the vegetable drawer of the refrigerator. When the
cuttings are preserved to hot, they can rot. So they can preserved well till in Mars. |
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Woodcutting
of pruningwood- For this is usable the oldest part from the wood of one year,
length 8 till 12 cm with under and above a knot. |
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Gathering
woodcuttings - Gathered and labeled laying in the vegetable drawer of the
refrigerator by maximum temperature 5°C; right cutting off is upperside and the slanting
cutting off is underside of the woodcutting. |
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Rooting
woodcuttings - In Februari let the preserved woodcuttings rooting in
buttercups with some cuttingsoil, supported in wholes made in the lid. After that set an
other cup on its top over it. |
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| The potting in begin Februari goes as follows. Cut off with a sharp knife
the bottom of the cutting 5 mm under the knot. Prick the wet made bottom in growing
powder. Let after that the cutting dry upside down. Take care that the cutting didn't dry
out. This can happen in a pot with wet peat-litter with the bottom of the gathering
cuttings 1,5 mm above the peat-litter. Let them stand so three days out of the sun
on a cool place. Then the cuttings can repot and that happens in a different way. The
cuttings are placed loose on the top of pressed wet peat-litter in a
buttercup and the like. In the cup comes 2 cm pressed peat-litter, on it is placed a lid
of the buttercup in which are made wholes. These wholes serve as a support for the placed
gathering woodcuttings. After that a second cup is placed over it on its head and so the
gathering woodcuttings stands in a 'mini-greenhouse'. The 'mini-greenhouse' is now placed
on a window-sill above a heating or on a heating-mat, well in the light but not in the
sun. When the woodcuttings are rooted repot them carefully and put them away still some
time warm in for example a mini-greenhouse. When during the preserving in the
refrigerator, there are come offshoots to the woodcuttings allready, this isn't bad,
provided that they aren't too long. Cut that long shootoffs back till one knot (take care
that there doesn't exist botrytis). When there is to see clear that there is growth
in the woodcuttings, they can treated as is described in discussed cuttingmethods before.
Most varieties fuchsias can be propagated via woodcuttings. Also you can try out to preserve
woodcuttings dig horizontal outdoors in the garden in a 20 cm deep gully, provided that
this gully isn't dig on a sheltered and to wet place. This method I have tried out with
woodcuttings of the F.magellanica-group. The dig-up cutting material is after
that end April direct placed outdoors in the soil with still one knot stretching out
above the soil. Pay attention with protection during nightfrost. The result of rooted
cuttings was about circa 80%. Well the soil in which the cuttings are rooting must be well
transmitting water. |
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| Woodcutting which is directly set-up - Cut woodcuttings
as before allready is described. But now the leaves may remain to it. Dip the cutting in
growing powder and let them dry in about 10 minutes. Fill a mini-greenhouse with a layer
of about 3 cm cuttingsoil and stick the cuttings in it about 2,5 cm deep. Give after that
them water and spout them with a middle against moulds. Bottom heating is now necessary.
When you haven't a mini-greenhouse, it can done also in a glass pot. Pay attention that
the leaves which are still sitting on aren't press against the potwall. If need cut a
piece of the leaves. The rooting lasts here something longer as by 'soft' cuttings, namely
about four weeks. |
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| Slipping in an other cuttingmedium - That cuttingmedium
can be rockwool, oasis or perlite. In all this cuttingmediums aren't
sitting nutritious matter. While they are new sterile, they may used still one time for
placing cuttings in it. For cuttings in oasis and rockwool, you can only use top- and
midcuttings with minimum two knots. Hold from the lowest knot the leaves and dip this
lowerend till the knot in cutting powder. After good flicking off the too much powder, let
the cutting dry about 5 à 10 minutes. We cut of the oasis or rockwool blocs of minimum 15
x 15 x 15 mm, stick with a pencil in the middle a whole of about 10 mm deep and place the
cutting in it. Place this blocs with in it the cuttings in a disk with in it 5 mm water.
When the cuttings aren't standing in the sun then isn't protection necessary. By a
space-temperature of 18 à 20°C they are rooted after 2 or 3 weeks. They are better
rooting with bottomheat under the disk. By repotting we let sit the peace of oasis or
rockwool. |
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Cuttings
in rockwool - In vegetable culture there are made often cuttings in rockwool.
Also fuchsia cuttings can root in this cuttingmedium. |
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Cuttings
in oasis - Set the blocs with in it placed the cuttings in a disk with in it 5 mm
water. Don't remove the blocs by repotting. |
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Cuttings
in perlite - The cutting stand in a glass of water filled with a little
layer of perlite with on it still a layer of water (method following web-site 'Hilberry
Web'). |
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| Slipping in perlite is among other things described on the
website 'Hilberry Web' with the URL-address http://users.breathemail.net/collingreenhough/Fuchsia_Cuttings.htm
of Mr. Collingreenhough. You can read there in English language how he has
developed this method of making cuttings. With his method of cutting he holds high
succeeding results of about 95%! |
To
Dutch version
November
2008